Thursday, September 26, 2013

La Famiglia- Roccella Jonica, Italy

































After being away from home for four months travelling around Europe you truly learn the importance that family has in your life and the value it holds. Coming into Italy I couldn't go past the opportunity to delve deep into my Italian heritage and roots. This is how we found ourselves right down the bottom of Italy in the far South in a small town called Roccella Jonica, a town where both my Nonna and Nonno grew up (Grandma and Grandpa). Most of my Nonno's family had emigrated to Australia over the years , so this left only my Nonna's family to visit who were spread out over Italy and other parts of Europe. We were invited to stay with my Nonna's older brother Vincenzo Linarello. A very funny and kind natured man that looked after us both so well. Although we were faced with a massive language barrier and spent most of our time playing charades and guessing games in the end it never really seemed to matter as long as we said si (yes) every time he said mangiare (eat) everything was smooth sailing. 

Our timing could not have been anymore perfect. Also holidaying in Calabria that week were my two cousins from France Guiseppe and Mirella with there family and my cousin Patrizia from Switzerland with her partner and son. Meeting them for the very first time we were welcomed with open arms and invited for a quite night of gelati to meet some of the rest of the family. We headed to a cafe that coincidentally was called Il Ritrovo which means The Reunion, a Reunion it sure was. As more and more relatives piled into the cafe waiters began to drag more and more tables and chairs joining them into a large snake motion in an attempt to squeeze us all in. Great Aunties, Second Cousins, Third Cousins they were all there right down to the "My Papa is friends with your Nonna" which in Calabria means we are immediate family! As all 27 of us conversed joyous words in Italian, French and English over the finest Italian Gelato it couldn't have been a more perfect setting.

One of the most important quests for me was to have a greater understanding as to how my family grew up and lived before they migrated to Australia. I was so blessed that both Vincenzo and Guiseppe took the time to take me to the farm house where my Nonna grew up with her Mother, Father and six other siblings. Up on the very top of a hill looking out over Roccella and the ocean stood a tiny old stone house. It was completely awe-inspiring to see where they slept, cooked, worked and played. The foundation where they learnt the many life skills that brang them to Australia, where they successfully created a great life for both themselves and of course their family. 

On the weekend we arrived in Roccella, the town was hosting its St Vittorio Festa a very important religious celebration that honoured Roccella Jonica's protecting Saint. This meant the entire town was in full swing with market filled streets, kiddy rides and many amusements. Leading to the all important mass service were all the town congregated in the small church where people spilled out onto footpaths all around and down the street. As the mass ended a float, marching band and parade marched its way around Roccella with a flock of its towns people following behind. As the congregation made full circle, fire works were released as the entire town watched in awe. It was enriching to be apart of something so traditional and of something so special to the town where my family originated from. 

Being our first stop in Italy we were prepared for a food overload. From Vincenzo's pasta and eggplants to the towns finest pizza we just couldn't get enough. We sampled every gelati flavour the town had to offer and indulged ourselves in freshly made sweet ricotta filled canollis that would melt in your mouth. On our last night Vincenzo took us out to dinner. Instead of a restaurant we were bought to a Gelataria where we stuffed ourselves with an indulging desert of Brioche Con Gelati, a plain savoury bread roll stuffed with an overload of gelati. With every bite I took I could feel the carbs and sugar bypass my stomach and go straight to my hips and thighs. Although it was way to delicious to even consider for a moment about stopping. I felt like a little naughty kid again as we all happily indulged in our desert dinner. 

I was so fortunate to be able to go back to my roots and experience such a traditional Italian town and be as close to an authentic Italian life style as I possibly could. I felt at home in Roccella Jonica and I am so grateful for everything my fantastic family did for us to make our stay extremely special, I am honestly beyond thankful. It was such a strange feeling having to say our goodbyes as we were waved off at the train station, something we hadn't experienced since our very first flight many months ago. It was a heart warming feeling as we rode off into the distance. Surprisingly sadness was the last thing on my mind as I knew we would all be reunited once again in another place and time somewhere else in this beautiful world. 

The Wanderers Daughter xx




You Always Meet Twice In Life- Zadar,/Silba/Premuda/Sibenek, Croatia


































After a month of being apart we were reunited once again with our two favourite sisters from Melbourne Rhiannon and Carly. Beyond excited to have the dream team back together we couldn't wait to spend the next couple of weeks exploring the delights that the Northern Croatian Coast has to offer and its many secluded near by islands. 

First on the list was the town of Zadar. Of course upon arrival we had no initial plans what so ever and found ourselves taking up an old local man at the bus station when he offered us his apartment not far from the city centre. Unlike the likes of Dubrovnik and Split, Zadar is a lot more relaxed and a lot less touristy which was perfect for us. We spent most of our time catching up with all the latest travelling gossip and unwinding down at tiny local beaches. 

Zadar's greatest attraction is its sea organ. Built into steps along the ocean shore it plays the sweetest melodies as the waves come crashing in echoing through the organ pipes. It was the perfect spot to wrap up the day, sitting back and watch the sun set play across the sky listening to the music of the ocean. 

Without to much research we hopped upon a ferry and found ourselves in the tiny bohemian island of Silba. With a population of 292 we were amongst a mere few tourists, most of which were just Croatian holiday goers visiting their holiday houses. One of my favourite things about the islands was the fact that it had no cars and no public transportation. Instead the towns people used a small two wheeled cart that they pulled along to get by. 

Going out on a limb we hadn't booked any accommodation. An extremely risky move we had learnt upon arrival. With their tourist information office not having much to offer we headed to the local bar to continue our search on wifi and aid any self doubt with beer. With little to no hope I asked the bartender if we could come stay with him for the night as we were currently homeless. At first he laughed it off until he realised we were being completely serious. Although he politely declined he came rushing back over moments later telling us his friends apartment was free for one night and that we could rent it off him for a very low price. It was possibly one of the most perfect surreal outcomes. 

What it lacked in size it sure made up for in quality. Silba was pure perfection. On the one night we were in Silba, the towns people were hosting two festivities. One was a local fish party down by the marina where a local band played and all the young children ran around dancing whilst there parents drank and feasted on the amazing barbecued local fish. The second was down by the ocean and featured two of Silba's very own hip hop rap artists, that were the equivalent of something straight-out of the television show Fat Pizza. We had a lovely evening bouncing between the two parties joining in on all the local fun.  

Having such a great authentic experience in Silba we decided to venture out further to an even smaller and quieter island Premuda. Know as a haven for diving experts we were not really sure what to expect upon arrival. Jumping off the ferry we soon realised we were completely out of our depth as we arrived onto a tiny village housing nothing more then a mini mart, two restaurants and a postoffice that was always closed. With wifi being completely non existent on the entire island it quickly dawned upon us that all our luck might have run out. Talking to a local at the bar we learnt that our only hope was to walk around the village knocking on any doors that had little apartment signs. Luckily both Rhiannon and Carly could speak enough Croatian to try and negotiate us a place to stay. We found ourselves being taken in by a lovely old Croatian lady who opened us into her world. Every day baking us the freshest bread and yummiest Croatian cakes we had struck gold once again. 

News began to spread like wild fire that four Australians were on the island. Locals were approaching us in the streets asking if the rumours were true and if that in fact we really were Australian tourists. Not only were we the only Australian tourists we were the ONLY tourists. Which made perfect sense once we learnt Premuda had a population of just 64. The town itself gave off a creepy mysterious vibe as we explored through the streets we came across many abandoned old houses which were still fully furnished yet half torn down that reminded us of doll houses. Talking to the local bar maid we were told "There is a special vibe here in Premuda. Sometimes things happen and sometimes they don't. Have no expectations and just see what happens". I wasn't sure if that reassured me or just made me think I was stuck inside a horror movie. But in the end it seemed to prove more magical then horrific. 

The isolated beaches were some of the most pristine crystal clear waters I have ever seen in my life. It was a divine place to swim and explore the waters, truly a slice of paradise. One of the mysterious things that did happen whilst we were in Premuda was that all our photos from both Silba and Premuda had been completely whipped from our memory sticks. Meaning that any evidence of these little treasures will remain untouched for all to see. At first I was upset but now I find it kind of warming that these memories and images will remain forever amongst the four Australians who shared an unforgettable experience together on the scheduled islands off Zadar.

Heading back to the mainland it was yet another unplanned debacle ahead. Having no wifi access it was impossible for us to organise any accommodation. After a long ferry ride we arrived into Zadar at midnight and being the weekend every hostel was booked out and with apartments being the main accommodation on the island we couldn't just knock on doors like we normally would because of the awkward timing. There was no where left to turn but the streets until sun up. Walking through the town square like a sign from above we were called out too "Oi you Jafa's " from a drunken young Canadian boy hanging out from the window of his hostel room. He invited us up to his room to drop off our bags and insisted we go out drinking with him and his roomies for the night. The boys were beyond thrilled their mate found a bunch of homeless Jafa's which we soon learnt stood for "Just Another Fucking Australian" to party it up with. We all made a quick pact were we all promised not steal any of each others belongings, and with that we took off for an open air club for the night. Ruined we ended up sleeping on the floor of the hostels common room and did a sneaky breakfast steal before flexing it to the bus stop and setting off on the next whirl wind adventure. 

Jumping on a bus heading south we made our way down the coast and found ourselves in the small town of Sibenik another beautiful Croatian mediterranean old town. With James taking charge it meant we finally had a place to stay so there was no worries and no random door knocking to be done upon arrival (he's such a spoil sport sometimes). Lacking some adventure we headed for the towns major attraction Krka National Park. Named after the river it encloses, its main purpose is to educate people using tourism activities whilst protecting the Krka River. We spent the day wandering through the lush green foliage and past the waterways spotting many different types of schools of fish, slithering snakes and other hidden wild life. 

The number one attraction in all the park is the Skradinski Buk. A natural clear pool that is surrounded by 17 cascading waterfalls flowing one into the other. We couldn't have asked for a better end to our day and to our time in Croatia. Floating around in the refreshing waters of one of Croatia's most magnificent natural wonders.    

Although we all tried our hardest to procrastinate the time had come to say our goodbyes. As the girls were meeting up with there parents in Split to continue there time in Croatia it was about time for us to bid farewell and make a move after a month of Croatian sea and sun.
 On the adventure of a life time the people you meet along the way and the friendships you make are the kind that you cherish forever. This is most certainly not the end yet simply the beginning of many great things to come between four young travellers. 

The Wanderer's Daughter xx